Chasing the Northern Lights
With solar activity peaking, the idea is that the Northern Lights will be more vibrant and frequent this year. And, if you’re planning to experience the aurora phenomenon, Tromso in Norway is an excellent choice.
Waking to the soft morning light filtering through my hotel window in Oslo, I felt a thrill of anticipation. Although I had arrived late the previous evening, and was eager to head to Tromso for the Northern Lights, I couldn’t resist spending a day exploring Norway’s vibrant capital, known for its stunning architecture, rich history, and beautiful natural landscapes.
Oslo’s Aker Brygge, a lively waterfront area filled with cafes and shops, was my first stop and it was not long before the enticing aroma of baked goods lured me into a cozy café to savour a traditional Norwegian breakfast of brown bread topped with smoked salmon and cream cheese, paired with a steaming cup of coffee. Soon seeing the city liven up, I strolled along the promenade, marvelling at the Oslo Opera House, its sloping roof beckoning me for a panoramic view of the city. Nestled between the fjord and green hills, Oslo looked stunning and I truly was loathe to leave; but Vigeland Park beckoned. Home to over 200 sculptures by Gustav Vigeland, including The Monolith, I was moved into love, joy, and sorrow.
Continuing on this cultural journey, I also visited the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, an open-air museum showcasing traditional buildings, including a stunning 12th-century stave church. Then, with the afternoon sun casting a golden hue over the city, I headed to the Munch Museum, where I immersed myself in Edvard Munch’s iconic works, including The Scream. The exhibits resonated deeply within me as I found my way back to Aker Brygge for dinner of reindeer stew and rakfisk (paired with local craft beer) at a restaurant with beautiful views of the fjord.
gateway to the arctic
The next morning, as I stepped off the plane in Tromso, excitement washed over me. This gateway to the Arctic promised a magical experience, especially my long-held dream of witnessing the Northern Lights. So, soon after settling in, I started out to explore the charms of this Arctic town. Tromso’s landscape is breath-taking, with fjords, towering mountains, quaint brightly-painted wooden houses, contrasting beautifully with the white snow on the ground! Of course, the Arctic Cathedral was first—its striking architecture, with large glass windows resembling icebergs, glistened in the fading sunlight. I stood in awe, imagining the countless moments this place had witnessed, before heading to Polar Museum and learning about Tromso's history as a centre for Arctic hunting and exploration.
Spending some time at the local market, sampling traditional Norwegian delicacies, cosying up in the warmth of local cafes, conversing with fellow travellers, sharing stories of adventures—I did it all.
divine light
The following day was about my dream and I joined a tour that promised to take a group of us to the best spots to witness the Northern Lights. As night fell, bundled in layers against the cold, we drove away from the city, guided only by the moon and stars. Our guide told us many stories of chasing the Northern Lights and of the Sami people, who believe that the auroras are the spirits of their ancestors dancing in the sky—which added a sense of reverence to our quest.
Suddenly, our vehicle stopped, and we stepped into the frigid air. I looked up to see waves of green, blue, and purple dancing across the night sky. The auroras flickered and swirled like a celestial ballet, mesmerising in their beauty. Standing in the crisp Arctic air, with the lights erupting above felt surreal, like stepping into a painting. Frozen in time, we all felt both insignificant and deeply connected to something much greater. We all captured photos, but no image could ever do justice to the experience.
sledding and lights again
My next adventure took me dog sledding in the Arctic wilderness. Gliding across the snow with a team of eager huskies was a dream come true. My tour guide paired me with a sled team and I learned how to steer. The moment we took off, exhilaration coursed through me as the dogs bounded forward—snow-covered trees lining our path, the only sounds being the crunch of snow beneath the sled and the joyful barks of the dogs. Some of us also went snow-mobiling on a motorised vehicle designed for travel over snow and ice—a thrilling way to explore winter landscapes and adventure in pristine, remote areas.
Later that evening, I prepared for another night of aurora hunting. Anticipation filled the air as our group set out once more. Although the skies were unpredictable, we remained hopeful. We set up camp with hot drinks and snacks, sharing stories around a small fire. Suddenly, the northern lights began to shimmer across the horizon again, and we couldn’t believe our luck. The snow-covered landscape around me glowed softly in the light, and although I was witnessing it for the second time, the awe was as intense as the first time. As we stood there, our hushed whispers punctuated by Oh-My-Gods, I was enveloped in a profound sense of peace.
in the famed fjords
I could not leave Tromso without exploring Norway's famed fjords. So, I booked a day trip and reached the harbour just as the sun was rising, illuminating the snow-capped mountains. Boarding a comfortable boat, our group settled on the deck, ready for the experience ahead. Cruising away from the city, the icy waters sparkled like diamonds in the sunlight. Towering peaks and hidden coves unfolded at every turn. Our first stop was Kongsfjorden, a stunningly picturesque fjord, where we disembarked to explore the tranquil islands. The air was crisp and invigorating, infused with saltwater and pine and unique geological formations, with sharp contrasts of dark rock against brilliant white snow making for a striking scene.
After a leisurely hike, we gathered for a traditional Norwegian lunch of fresh salmon sandwiches, local cheeses, and dark rye bread, all enjoyed against the stunning fjord backdrop. Tales of the region’s history and wildlife, shared by a local guide, was simply the icing on the cake. We spotted a pod of dolphins dancing nearby and a majestic eagle soaring overhead. I believe I also saw the tail of a whale, but it could have been my mind conjuring.
beauty and peace
The day was drawing to a close and we began our return to Tromso, feeling a deep sense of peace, knowing that we had experience something truly special. The trip had deepened my appreciation for Norway's raw beauty. The towering cliffs, serene waters, and vibrant wildlife had created vivid memories I would carry long after returning home. Before heading to the airport the next day, I visited the Tromso Arctic-Alpine Botanic Garden, showcasing flora that thrives in harsh climates. Walking among the resilient plants felt symbolic, a reminder of nature’s strength and adaptability.
Norway had opened my eyes to the wonders of the world, and I knew it would not be my last visit to the land of the auroras. I would come again to experience the warmth of Norwegians, the crisp Arctic air and the surreal lights of our planet.
